Looking for Polar Bears, Part II
June 15, 2009
Hansoya, Rega - 66 35N 13 05E
We have crossed the Arctic Circle yesterday. The mountains are stark and grey with snow with peaks lost in the low overcast. We decided to cut inside of a rock and an island and were surprised to see a monument on a rock that marks the spot.
Since leaving Rorvick three days ago we have anchored in remote bays off of the main inland channel that freighters and ferry boats use. The passages are intricate in places and one must always be on look out for rocks and traffic. Ocean crossings are less stressful but the water is sheltered and well marked.
Last night, we dropped the anchor in a lovely spot with a small heard of goats. An eagle swooped down as we negotiated around a rock at the entrance. The rain started last night and has not let up. We will take the day off and work on the heater. We are using it everyday and we need a little more heat out of it.
June 19, 2009
Reine, Lofoten Islands - 67 56N 13 05E
This is one of the loveliest spots we have visited. There is a very protected fishing village surrounded on three sides by shear cliffs. We now get the 24 hour sun and are enjoying a high pressure system that gives us cloudless deep blue skies. The proprietress at the hotel which manages our dock recommended a hike that took us to the top of the mountain. We ate at the hotel last night and had a lovely but pricey meal. We had been warned that prices are high here.
Reine has a small artist's community with an impressive gallery. The smell is pungent from the cod fish drying on racks about town. Dried cod bound for Spain and Portugal is the main export. There are pallets stacked with cod stacked on the dock behind us.
Kelly and Jos Archer, who built Onora, will meet us on the 23rd and sail with us for a week. The boat they built before us, the 80 foot Lenore (owned buy our friend David Dillard) , and The one after us, an 80 foot 'unsailboat' (so called by owner and designer, Steve Dashew) will join us up here for the largest gathering of Kelly's boats ever. It should be fun.